Mystery Diner: Preservation Bread & Wine
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| Pulled pork on a fresh country roll with French onion soup at Preservation Bread & Wine cafe and wine bar in downtown Geneva. (Kane County Chronicle photo) |
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E-mails to the editor from readers come in all forms and tones. From the irate to the inquisitive to the complimentary, you never know what you’re going to get when you gaze into a newsroom e-mail inbox.
A reader e-mailed the paper recently with something completely different. Inspired by something for which I would try to figure out for my own, this reader recommended we check out Preservation Bread & Wine cafe and wine bar for the Mystery Diner column. And so we did.
I was eager to find out for myself what makes this place so special as to move one of its current patrons to actually take the time to e-mail the local newspaper. They say a neighbor’s endorsement is the best a restaurant can receive. In a way, this is how our reader’s e-mail struck me.
Tucked along Geneva’s Third Street, Preservation offers that immediate cozy escape that all its neighboring shops and eateries enjoy. The natural brick walls and rustic design elements gave Preservation the feel of a great library or bookstore coffee shop, but with bottles of wine instead of books. It’s a small dining space, so you’re in for an intimate experience no matter what size group you are with.
On a recent weekday just after noon, there was one large group and several smaller groups. Some were enjoying wine, and some were not. All seemed to be in a great mood. The single server greeted me and made me feel at home right away.
Being a work day lunch, I ordered a hot tea in lieu of some fine wine. Anyway, this would give me a chance to scope out the wines for next time, perhaps after work or on a weekend. The menu is small and focused, fitting for a place such as this, where there seems to be an emphasis on simple pleasures, both in food and drink.
The menu features cold sandwiches, hot sandwiches, salads, soups and eclectic gourmet appetizers. On the other side, an assortment of cheese platters are available. In this way, Preservation works well whether you’re looking for an actual meal or just to enjoy some wine and cheese. Also, all bread and meats are baked and prepared in house, so absolute freshness should be expected.
I ordered a soup and sandwich combo, with pulled pork on a country roll and French onion soup. I had narrowly resisted the lamb meatloaf with preserved lemon and pomegranate molasses on focaccia, telling myself that’s what I’ll try next time. When I asked my server what she thought, she made it even more difficult by telling me the lamb meatloaf sandwich was her new favorite. But when she told me the pulled pork sandwich was North Carolina-style, with just the barbecue and coleslaw on the golden bun, the scale had been tipped. I love all kinds of barbecue, but North Carolina-style pulled pork sandwiches are delicious in a special kind of way for me. Thoughts of tangy barbecue sauce and fresh coleslaw entered my mind and my decision had been made.
While I had no room for one on this day, several of Preservation’s appetizers, or “Savory Bites,” sounded delicious, as well. Flatbread pizza, wild mushroom tart with goat cheese and short rib pie all sounded good and imaginative. In this way, I’d say all of Preservation’s food resembles a kind of unique and creative homestyle, or comfort, cuisine.
Food is served on small stone platters. It really creates a food-art kind of experience, which food people know matters when it comes to people’s perceptions and thoughts on how food tastes. When you see a chef put that level of care into presenting the food, you can only imagine what goes into making it. And this is definitely the sense I got with Preservation.
The French onion soup was served in a low square-shaped bowl, with two freshly prepared crostini pieces serving as the soup’s bread. They worked very well in the soup, maintaining their crisp-doughy contrast with each bite, even as they soaked up the soup. Freshly chopped herbs and onions sliced to just the right size made every bite flavorful and balanced.
On its fresh-baked golden country roll, the pulled pork sandwich was very inviting. The bun was large enough to hold and contain a generous portion of pulled pork and coleslaw that wasn’t so big as to be over the top. Golden, soft and buttery, the bun was a good base for the tangy, spicy flavors of the pulled pork and coleslaw.
North Carolina-style barbecue sauce is vinegar based, and a fresh, slightly spicy coleslaw is as important to North Carolina barbecue as the napkins you’ll need when you’re done eating. I love all kinds of barbecue, but when I eat North Carolina-style, it truly takes me to North Carolina in my mind. The pulled pork itself was as tender as can be, and contrasted well with the crunch of the coleslaw. The pork was juicy, but not at all messy. The bun served its purpose well, maintaining bun integrity to the last bite.
Preservation offers a relaxing and informal dining atmosphere to complement its upscale, gourmet food and wine offerings. The result is a unique dining experience that would be tough to replicate. My only regret was going for lunch on a work day; next time, I’ll be sure to go when I can pair and enjoy some wine with my food.
• Mystery Diner is an employee in the newsroom of the Kane County Chronicle.
Preservation Bread & Wine
513 S. Third St., Geneva
http://preservationbreadandwine.com
630-208-1588
Price range: $10-15 (without wine)
Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to midnight Friday-Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday
