Mystery Diner: Nosh
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| Mexican benedict from Nosh in Geneva. (Kane County Chronicle photo) |
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I am a big fan of upscale breakfast restaurants. So ever since I learned the premise of Nosh in downtown Geneva – innovative interpretations of classic breakfast and lunch fare – I’ve been keyed to try it.
Two coworkers and I went just before noon on a recent Monday. Knowing how popular Nosh is, we wanted to beat the noon lunch rush. Others apparently had the same idea, because the restaurant essentially was filled before the clock even struck noon.
The design and feel within Nosh is whimsical and fun. The space is wide open and well suited to help patrons start their days with a satisfying breakfast or lunch. It’s one of those places that makes it near impossible to be in anything but a great mood.
The menu is as varied and extensive as the items on it are eclectic. While the lunch menu offers much to be desired, there was too much on the breakfast menu that excited me to give lunch any real chance.
The Costa Rican breakfast comes with two eggs, any style, with cheesy pink beans served with jicama slaw, chipotle vinaigrette and a housemade cheesy tortilla. Chilaquiles are housemade nachos sauteed with spicy salsa topped with queso fresco and two eggs, any style. Eggs benedict choices are creative and very out of the box – think salmon benedict. A section of the menu called “Mom Can’t Make This” dares diners to put their mother’s home cooking up to the test.
In the end, I went with the Mexican benedict. In the usual format of any eggs benedict, it included two halves of an English muffin and poached eggs. Unlike a normal eggs benedict, the ham was replaced with chorizo sausage. There was a hollandaise sauce, though it was a jalapeno hollandaise to fit with the theme. It also comes with tomatoes, which I requested to have replaced with fresh jalapenos.
One of my coworkers ordered the savory French toast – French baguette soaked in herb batter and served with creme fraiche, diced applewood-smoked bacon and caramelized onions. My other dining companion did go with the lunch menu, ordering the caprese focaccia sandwich: sun-dried tomato pesto, fresh mozzarella and basil pesto on focaccia bread with a balsamic reduction.
I don’t often eat eggs benedict, but I’m also a sucker for Mexican-influenced cuisine and chorizo sausage. And on this day, it just sounded good. The dish was attractive and enticing. The poached eggs were particularly light and fluffy, taller than any poached eggs I’ve seen. The light, subtle flavors of the muffin and the eggs provided a good contrast to the distinct flavors of the chorizo and jalapeno hollandaise. Unlike most breakfast dishes I get that come with chorizo and jalapenos, my stomach wasn’t too full and my palate still had its integrity. I credit this to the delicately prepared jalapeno hollandaise. Mixing the creamy, buttery breakfast sauce with the strong flavor of jalapenos and only a trace of the spice must have been difficult to master.
I’d never before seen a savory French toast on a menu, so I was excited to try it. Most people generally favor either the savory or the sweet when it comes to breakfast, so it was neat to see a restaurant toy with people’s preferences in this way. The crisp pieces of bacon and soft caramelized onions played nicely with the herb batter-soaked baguette. What I half expected to be a culinary gimmick on a classic sweet breakfast dish turned out to be tasty and satisfying.
I only had a bit of the caprese focaccia sandwich, but that was all I needed to know this was a good sandwich. It took the best of a caprese salad and turned into something you can pick up with your hands. The focaccia supported the flavors of fresh tomato, mozzarella and basil, rather than overshadow them as I might have expected.
Perhaps the most surprising thing about Nosh is that its prices aren’t any higher than most breakfast and lunch options in the area. You might expect to pay a premium for dishes as creative as these, but I’m glad to see Nosh making them affordable and accessible to all who enjoy good food.
• Mystery Diner is an employee in the newsroom of the Kane County Chronicle.
Nosh
211 James St., Geneva
www.experiencenosh.com
630-845-1570
Prices: $8-15
Hours: 7:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday-Friday, 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday












