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![[A Toda Madre in Glen Ellyn is part of the family-owned Bien Trucha Group of Mexican restaurants with added locations in Geneva and Naperville.]
GLEN ELLYN – We knew we were in for a treat when we learned A Toda Madre in Glen Ellyn is a sister restaurant to the critically acclaimed Bien Trucha in Geneva.
Escaping a chill Saturday afternoon, we were hungry for something with a little kick. A hostess led us to a banquette table in the front dining room off the bar. Lots of people had the same idea, and one family was enjoying the long community table under a floating, tropics-inspired arbor.
The upscale space is contemporary, warmed by wood and brick, with a variety of succulent plants gracing one wall of the room opposite an attractive mural that appears to be an abstract ode to agave. It is the heart of agave that is used to make tequila. The stainless steel bar, looking sharp, is home to handcrafted cocktails.](a936e0e1-8db1-4b96-b7b8-896014c10409/image-pv_web.jpg)
[A Toda Madre in Glen Ellyn is part of the family-owned Bien Trucha Group of Mexican restaurants with added locations in Geneva and Naperville.]
GLEN ELLYN – We knew we were in for a treat when we learned A Toda Madre in Glen Ellyn is a sister restaurant to the critically acclaimed Bien Trucha in Geneva.
Escaping a chill Saturday afternoon, we were hungry for something with a little kick. A hostess led us to a banquette table in the front dining room off the bar. Lots of people had the same idea, and one family was enjoying the long community table under a floating, tropics-inspired arbor.
The upscale space is contemporary, warmed by wood and brick, with a variety of succulent plants gracing one wall of the room opposite an attractive mural that appears to be an abstract ode to agave. It is the heart of agave that is used to make tequila. The stainless steel bar, looking sharp, is home to handcrafted cocktails.
[These brochetas feature two skewers of bacon-wrapped shrimp, pineapple and onion, with the spicy chipotle-lime glaze requested on the side.]
The spacious main dining room features an eye-catching mural of iconic Mexican imagery.
While we studied the menu and the list of specials that included snapper as catch of the day, we munched on warm chips accompanied by a creamy and flavorful, mild bean dip. It was a tasty change-up to most restaurants' traditional salsa.
Our outstanding server told us that dishes are served family style and meant for sharing. Gluten-free options abound.
[Named after the restaurant, the pastor marinated pork tacos are among the favorite dishes.]
We opened with brochetas – two skewers of bacon-wrapped shrimp, pineapple and onion. So we could control the heat level of the spicy chipotle-lime glaze, we requested it on the side. The shrimp were good-sized and the bacon provided a decadent flourish for a delectable course.
The menu tempted with appetizers and cazuelitas, a trio of warm, cheese-based dishes served with tortillas, offering such combinations as pan-seared shrimp with serrano chimichurri; roasted poblano strips with house-prepared chorizo and crema fresca; and roasted shishito peppers.
[The restaurant pays delicious tribute to grilled Mexican street corn with its version of esquites.]
Tacos are a specialty and we finally settled on the restaurant's namesake, A Toda Madre.
The tacos feature al pastor, marinated pork paired with chihuahua cheese, pineapple pico de gallo and salsa morita, the latter lending a touch of deep smokiness. The corn tortillas were fresh and tender, while the filling's ingredients melded perfectly.
Be aware that one cannot mix and match tacos. They are ordered four of a kind, well-suited for sharing.
Our server said the Bien Trucha tacos also are among the favorites. The recipe combines grilled skirt steak, chorizo, chihuahua cheese and roasted tomatillo-serrano salsa.
[Fresh chips are accompanied by a creamy bean dip instead of salsa.]
As a side dish, we selected esquites: grilled corn with epazote-infused butter, lemon aioli, cotija cheese and chile piquin – a rich and flavorful recipe that's on the mild side.
For a sweet finish, we picked flan, a Latin twist on creme brulee. La Toda Madre describes its take as a Mexico City style vanilla hard custard. It definitely was firm with a touch of caramelized sugar on top and a superbly flavored drizzle of rompope – an eggnog-like drink made with eggs, milk and vanilla, which imparted a hint of liqueur. Delicious.
The menu recently added new dishes, and with the advent of cold weather said goodbye to fruit-laced sangria in favor of its Fall Sangria.
Our server said the drink is made with white wine, bourbon, peach brandy, apple cider, a splash of carbonated water and apple bitters. Served at a neighboring table, the diner noted it had a sweeter profile than the summertime sangria.
[Mexico City style flan drizzled with rompope provides a sweet finish to the meal.]
A Toda Madre offers catering services, as well as dishes for holiday tables. The family-run Bien Trucha Group also welcomes private events. In addition to A Toda Madre and Bien Trucha, it operates Quiubo in Naperville. This year, it opened Santo Cielo, an elevated rooftop space atop Hotel Indigo in downtown Naperville, venturing into global-inspired cuisine.
The Mystery Diner is a newsroom employee at Suburban Life. The diner’s identity is not revealed to the restaurant staff before or during the meal. The Mystery Diner visits a different restaurant and then reports on the experience. If the Mystery Diner cannot recommend the establishment, we will not publish a review.
[A mural adds visual punch to the bar and adjacent front dining room.]
If you go
WHAT: A Toda Madre
WHERE: 499 N. Main St., Glen Ellyn
HOURS: Lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday; dinner from 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday, and 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, with bar staying open one hour later at night
INFO: atmrestaurant.com, 630-474-0969