Grillin' Chicken: Whole birds are cheap, but require care to grill

The summer barbecue season wouldn't be complete without the smoky goodness of grilled chicken.

And the best — and cheapest — way to do that is using whole chickens. Whole birds often run for under $1 per pound, which is considerably cheaper than prepared cuts, such as boneless, skinless breasts or thighs.

Whole chickens also often fare better on the dry, intense heat of a grill than do individual parts. The breasts, for example, quickly dry out. And even when properly cooked, those smaller cuts spend too little time on the grill to develop much flavor from it.

Because whole chickens are cooked slower at a lower temperature, you get a moist bird and a smoky flavor you could never achieve indoors, "no matter how many times you set off the smoke alarm," says Bruce Weinstein, co-author of the recent "Cooking Know-How."

There are a few obstacles, however, to successfully grilling whole chickens.

First, the shape doesn't lend itself to even cooking. The lean white meat of the breast cooks much faster than the fattier dark meat in the legs and thighs. Second, the skin tends to burn before the chicken is cooked through.

The latter is easily avoided by using indirect grilling, says Weinstein. This involves turning off the gas burner directly under the chicken, keeping only the side burners lit. With charcoal, it means piling the coals to one or both sides of the grill and keeping the center empty.

As for even cooking, there are several ways to address the problem.

Chris Lilly, the pitmaster at Big Bob Gibson Bar-B-Q in Decatur, Ala., and author of "Big Bob Gibson's BBQ Book" notes that the football-like shape of the bird requires that the cook spend plenty of time rotating it in order for it to cook evenly.

Lilly recommends "turning an oval problem into a two-sided answer" by cutting out the chicken's backbone, then opening and spreading the bird out flat. This exposes the entire bird to the heat at the same time.

Butterflying a chicken in this way is best done using a sturdy pair of kitchen shears. On a clean cutting board, cut along both sides of the backbone to remove it, then flip the chicken over and use your hand to flatten out the breastbone. If you like, you can cover the chicken with plastic wrap and use a meat mallet to flatten it to a more uniform thickness, which further ensures even cooking.

Once you have flattened your chicken, consider grilling it under bricks. The weight of two bricks, wrapped in foil, presses the chicken flat onto the grill grates, which helps sear it quickly and seal in the juices.

The hot bricks also promote fast and even cooking, and evenly crispy skin. A 3- to 4-pound bird can be cooked in under 30 minutes.

Another popular method for grilling a whole chicken involves a beer can. Jam a half-full can of beer into the bottom cavity of the bird, then stand the whole thing upright on the grill (using the can as a stand). This keeps the slower-cooking legs closer to the heat than the easily dried out breast meat. As it cooks, the beer simmers and steams, infusing the inside of the chicken with flavorful moisture.

This technique works so well many retailers sell grilling racks that mimic this upright position and have a well in which to pour liquid. But using a can of beer is cheap and works fine.

For even greater control over the cooking process, Lilly suggests cutting a whole chicken into several large pieces. You still get the economy of using a whole bird, but with the speed and ease of smaller parts.

"You no longer have to worry about juggling the internal temperatures of the white and dark meat if you separate the two," he says. Plus, "it gives the marinade, dry rub or brine better access to the meat, resulting in more flavorful fowl."

The chicken also can be cut up and partially cooked in the oven before grilling. This is especially useful when using sweet sauces or glazes, which can quickly burn on the grill.

But Weinstein says the downside of a cut up chicken is that the shorter cooking time means less opportunity for the skin to get really crispy and for the meat to get infused with the rich flavor of the bones.

As for seasoning the chicken, consider using methods that also add moisture.

Oil-based marinades are excellent for this. Try olive, vegetable or canola oil blended with fresh herbs and citrus juices or vinegar.

Marinate whole chickens for at least an hour before grilling, but be careful about letting them soak for too long. Especially acidic marinades(anything with plenty of vinegar or citrus juice) can make the meat a bit mushy.

Weinstein recommends his mother's recipe of equal parts lemon juice, soy sauce and honey.

Flavored brines (salt water with seasonings) also help keep a chicken moist by drawing water into the meat and plumping up the bird.

A basic brine can be made by dissolving 1/3 cup kosher salt and 1/3 cup sugar in a quart of water. Additional flavorings, such as herbs, spices or even juice, can be added.

Whole chickens should be brined in the refrigerator for 2 or 3 hours (much longer and the bird could become unpleasantly salty). Discard the liquid and pat the bird dry before grilling.

Whichever cooking method and seasonings you choose, be sure to start with chickens that are no more than 3 to 4 pounds each. This size bird easily feeds four people but isn't so large that it will dry out on the grill before it cooks through.

TANDOORI-RUBBED BEER CAN GRILLED CHICKEN

A half-full can of beer keeps this grilled whole chicken upright so the legs (which cook slower) are closer to the heat than the quicker-cooking breast. It also infuses the bird with flavorful moisture. Basmati rice and a cool cucumber salad with a garlicky yogurt dressing would balance the crispy, tandoori-spiced skin that results from this simple technique.

Start to finish: 2 hours 20 minutes (20 minutes active)

Servings: 4

1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

3 1/2- to 4-pound whole chicken

2 tablespoons lemon juice

12-ounce can beer

In a small bowl, whisk together the cayenne pepper, coriander, cumin, ginger, paprika, salt and turmeric.

Place the chicken in a large, glass baking dish, then rub it with the lemon juice. Rub the skin of the chicken with the spice mixture, then cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 6 hours.

Heat the grill on high.

When ready to grill, turn off the middle burner and reduce the sides to medium-high (about 375 F to 400 F).

Discard half of the beer. Place the half-filled can on a sturdy work surface. Holding the chicken right side up (wings and neck cavity on top) insert the beer can into the lower cavity.

Transfer the chicken and beer can to the grill. Stand the chicken over the center of the grill, positioning the legs to keep the bird standing upright. Grill, covered, over indirect heat, until an instant read thermometer inserted at the thickest part of the thigh reads 165 F, about 1 hour. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, cover with foil and let rest for 10 minutes before carving.

CURRIED HONEY-MUSTARD BARBECUED CHICKEN

Par-cooking the chicken ensures that the various parts cook through before the skin blackens. This is particularly helpful when using a sugar- or honey-based glaze, which can burn easily. Serve with potato salad and some sliced ripe tomatoes with a lemon juice and olive oil dressing.

Start to finish: 1 hour (30 minutes active)

Servings: 4

1/3 cup honey

1/3 cup coarse-grain mustard

1/4 cup olive oil

4 teaspoons hot or mild curry powder

Salt

1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper

3 1/2- to 4-pound chicken, cut up

Salt, to taste

In a bowl, whisk together the honey, mustard, oil, curry powder, 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper. Set aside.

Heat the oven to 375 F. Season the chicken with additional salt and place it on a rimmed baking sheet lined with foil (for easy cleanup). Bake for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat a grill to medium-high (about 375 F to 400 F).

Remove chicken from the oven and brush with the curried honey-mustard sauce. Grill the chicken, turning and basting frequently, until well browned and cooked through, about 15 minutes.

The weight of two heated bricks helps this chicken cook quickly and evenly. But it’s the Cuban-inspired orange-lime marinade that gives this bird its character. Serve with grilled asparagus and a Spanish-style rice and bean pilaf.

MOJO MARINATED CHICKEN GRILLED UNDER A BRICK

Start to finish: 2 hours (20 minutes active)

Servings: 4

1 cup orange juice

1/2 cup olive oil

Juice and zest of 1 lime

1 tablespoon cumin seeds, crushed

2 teaspoons dried oregano

1 teaspoon salt

Ground black pepper, to taste

6 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

3 1/2- to 4-pound whole chicken

In a large baking dish, whisk together the orange juice, olive oil, lime juice and zest, cumin seeds, oregano, salt, pepper and garlic.

With the breast side down, use sturdy kitchen shears to cut along one side of the chicken's back bone down the entire length. Cut down the other side of the back bone and remove it. Turn the chicken breast side up; open the chicken out on a work surface and use the palm of your hand to flatten it.

Place the flattened chicken in the baking dish with the marinade and turn to coat. Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour or up to six hours.

Wrap two bricks in two layers of heavy duty foil and place on the grill grates. Heat the grill on high. When ready to cook, turn off the middle burner and reduce the sides to medium-high (375 F to 400 F).

Remove the chicken from the marinade and blot off the excess with a paper towel.

Lightly oil the grill grates. Place the chicken on the center of the grill, skin-side down. Using sturdy tongs or oven mitts, place the bricks on top of the chicken. Close the cover and grill for 10 to 15 minutes, or until the skin is well browned.

Remove the bricks and, using tongs and a spatula, turn the chicken over. Place the bricks back on the chicken, close the cover and grill until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165 F, about 10 to 15 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, cover with foil and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut into quarters to serve.